Chatham, Massachusetts is located at the southeast tip of Cape Cod. If
the Cape is viewed as a bent arm, Chatham is at the elbow. To the east
is the Atlantic Ocean, to the South is Nantucket Sound, and to the
north is Pleasant Bay. The only adjacent town (located at both the
north and west town line boundaries) is Harwich.
Major geographical features of the Town are hilly, wooded uplands,
extensive barrier beaches and spits, harbors, numerous small estuaries,
and salt and freshwater ponds.
Mainland features are the result of glacial action during the last
Ice Age and consist of ridges, knobs (hills), outwash plains, and
kettles (depressions and ponds). Several ponds formed by melting
glacial ice have become salt ponds because of rising sea levels. The
Town?s coastal dunes and beaches have been formed through thousands of
years of erosion of scarps (cliffs) and movement of the material from
the north and west.
Strong Island in Pleasant Bay marks the Town?s northern boundary.
Morris and Stage Islands mark the extent of developed area on the
south. The Red River is the boundary on the west and the Muddy Creek
(or Monomoy River) on the northwest. The highest point (131 feet) in
Chatham is "Great Hill", long a landmark for vessels offshore.
In 1606, Samuel de Champlain, the first European known to have
explored the area, encountered the Monomoyicks, a Native American tribe
of about 500-600 members. The topography he mapped and described is
still recognizable, as are the varieties of plants, fish, shellfish,
and game birds. The Monomoyicks sustained themselves with
well-established farms, hunting and fishing.
The arrival of English colonists began about 1656 when William
Nickerson, an English emigrant working as a land surveyor and weaver in
Yarmouth on Cape Cod made the first land purchase from Sachem
Mattaquason of the Monomoyicks. Nickerson failed to get permission for
the purchase (a requirement at that time) from the Plymouth General
Court. As a result, the Court confiscated his land except for a
100-acre Homestead. But, after 10-12 years of litigation, he regained
ownership. With additional purchases he ultimately owned all of what is
now Chatham with the exception of some land east of Old Harbor Road,
which had been reserved for the Monomoyicks. In 1664 Nickerson settled
his family on the west side of Ryder?s Cove.
By the 1690?s, 17 families lived in Chatham, and that number slowly
grew to 50 families in the early 1700?s while the native population
dwindled to 50-70. Before being established as a Constablewick in 1696
known as "Monamoy", the settlement had belonged to Yarmouth and then
Eastham. Chatham was incorporated in 1712 and quickly organized school
districts and church leadership.
(In the early 1700s) "...the outlook for the place was not
considered bright. It was small in area and the General Court had
refused to increase its territory. According to the ideas and mode of
life at that time, it could never accommodate many settlers. Moreover,
its location was thought to be unfavorable, in those times when England
was almost constantly at war with France, as it was considered to be
peculiarly exposed on two sides to attacks from French privateers who
occasionally hovered around the coast and threw the people into a
panic."
-William C. Smith, A History of Chatham, Massachusetts, 1947
Chatham?s early prospects were not promising. The first 100 years
of recorded history reveal a struggle to establish an economy and a
stable population. Situated at the end of a primitive road from
Yarmouth and surrounded by open ocean, Chatham was vulnerable. Farming
yielded little beyond the needs of the residents, and fishing, the
mainstay of the early economy, was often disrupted by war ships, first
the French and later the British. The 1750 natural closing of the
entrance to Pleasant Bay forced maritime activities farther south. The
French and Indian Wars and the 1760 smallpox epidemic took both men and
money. By 1765 the census listed only 678 persons in 105 families.
It wasn?t until after the Revolutionary War that Chatham stabilized
and grew. Industries such as fish export, ship building and salt
production brought life to the economy. Agriculture, fishing, whaling
and maritime enterprises flourished. In 1830, during the height of salt
works production, the population was 2130.
In 1851 a breach of North Beach occurred affecting the stability of
the fishing trade, but fishing, shipbuilding and salt making still
occupied most of the Town?s population. Some greater diversity of
religious and cultural groups appeared in the years prior to the Civil
War, and government services including post offices were upgraded. The
population peaked in 1860 at 2710, but dropped to only 1300 following
the Civil War.
Change to a Resort Area
In the late 1800s the growing popularity of seaside summers and the
development of resorts attractive to a wealthy clientele provided a new
basis for economic growth, especially after the railroad was built in
1887. The Life Saving Station, Stage Harbor Light, a local newspaper,
telegraph and telephone service were added, and the first auto license
was issued during this period. Coastal erosion forced the moving of the
Twin Lights at James Head to the site where the Lighthouse Overlook is
now located. Two new schools were needed, and the first public library
was established in 1875 in South Chatham. In 1896 Marcellus Eldredge, a
native son, donated Eldredge Public Library to the townspeople.
The airport was built in 1930, road service was upgraded, and
automobile travel soon became common. In 1950 the summer population of
5,000 greatly outnumbered 2,457 year-round residents.
Since World War II, Chatham has experienced rapid growth and has
become a popular place for retirement. Housing construction has
continued steadily since the war with about 1,000 new houses built per
decade. Many are second homes. Currently only about one-half of the
Town?s 6300 housing units are occupied year-round; the other half is
occupied seasonally. The 1990 federal census lists a population of
6,579.
Chatham Today
Despite precarious beginnings, Chatham has developed over the years
into a highly desirable place to live in or visit. Today its small-town
qualities are well suited for families and retired residents. A
spectacular coastline and out-of-the-way location have kept generations
of summer residents coming back each year. With its old Cape Cod
quaintness relieved by the vast pristine beaches and surrounding ocean,
Chatham has great appeal. Visitors in July and August now number
20-25,000 annually.
The Town's development as a high quality mecca for retirees, summer
residents and tourists depended on two factors which in the early days
of European settlement had been liabilities: its isolation and its
exposure to the ocean. Today, Chatham prospers because of these factors
and struggles to maintain its character in the face of its economic
success. Cool summers, beautiful warm Indian summers and relatively
mild winters make Chatham a comfortable place in which to vacation or
live year-round. We are proud of our community, and hope that you will
enjoy your stay with us and return often.